Full of anticipation, and a breakfast of coffee, cereal, bread and cheese (it is best to fuel up for a day of trekking, well okay on this occasion maybe half a day), I prepare to rendezvous with a number of other group members and our local guide from Icelandic Mountain Guides. Three months of training (including with a backpack) and some new mountain rated gear are about to be put to the test. Having spent my first ever night in Reykjavik, there has not been much time to sight see (except to note that anything with the puffin on it seems to be a popular souvineer item).
Two other trekkers from Scandinavia have already provided insight into what the conditions on the trail might be like whilst chatting over breakfast at the guest house. They also explain why they are making a number of butter sandwiches (you read that right!), “for the energy” they say! This is because they are carrying heavier backpacks as they are undertaking the self supported camping option. Based on this I decided to eat an additional cheese sandwich before leaving. Then down the hill I trudge carrying everything that I need for a week, in step with a group of 4 other trekkers who I have also met in the breakfast room. The famous Hallgrimskirkja church in Reykjavik (pictured below), is now being left behind. It does not feel very summery as the wind is cold and the sky overcast (the same as when I arrived the previous evening).
My fellow trekkers mainly hark from both Europe and the United States and we all huddle together to receive the first of what will be many briefings over the next 7 days from Solvi our Icelandic guide (Solvi is a local). At this point in time ones gear has to be finally sorted between two bags, one which you carry (the backpack) and a second (a duffle bag), which can be transported. I pack extra snacks into the backpack along with all of the winter gear that I am not already wearing. This is to later prove to be a good move on my part. Solvi has already made the point that the weather is variable and that anything is possible!
So onto the bus we clamber (along with a number of other trekkers/hikers) for what will be a 4-5 hour journey to the Laugavegur trailhead at Landmannalaugum. They believe in efficiency in Iceland so hence why there are buses which run to and from the trailhead during summer.
Having not been to Iceland before there is a lot of scenery to gaze at through the window as the bus wends it’s way initially southeast from Reykjavik along the ring road. We are told about how use is made of all of the available flat arable land for farming (predominantly sheep and horses), along with the use of geothermal powered hot houses to grow mainly vegetables.
Already the scenery seems almost from another world, as a lot of the landscape is stark and there are very few trees (which mainly look wind battered). However there are horses and horned sheep complete with very thick woolly coats, scattered across the grassy flats. We have one pit stop for 30 minutes at a roadside café, where many in the group indulge in a cup of coffee and a sweet treat, enticed by what is on view in the display counter. Plus there are no café’s like this where we are heading for the next 7 days (something to be aware of in central Iceland in tourist season)! Disclaimer-this is not a luxury all needs catered for walking trip!
Off the bus sets and not long after we turn off the main road onto a narrower back road (an F road). This is when the group discovers that bus drivers in Iceland can really drive. There is none of this namby pamby straight tar sealed road arrangement now. Instead it is mainly volcanic sand with various sized rocks and pot holes for the rest of the journey. Yes, this is one of the infamous Icelandic back roads. This explains the requirement for the fat tractor sized tyres and high wheel base on the bus. So we bump and at times lurch along, slowing down only for the odd oncoming vehicle (the road really is narrow). It is at this point that I make a mental note to not ever drive on a back road in Iceland. Several hours into the journey and there are virtually no signs of civilisation except for the unsealed roads across the volcanic sand (and the odd sign). Yes we are in the midst of the volcanic landscape now!
- The Landmannalaugar trailhead
Finally the bus rounds a corner on relatively flat ground, and we see the hut complex surrounded by the relatively barren scenery that surrounds the trailhead. There are a number of other vehicles parked in the car park and there is a fair bit of activity as hard core trekkers (complete with full back packs), less hard core trekkers (us with smaller backpacks), and day trippers all go about their business. Being on a scheduled trip means that we are entitled to use the bathroom facilities (noting that one would have to walk quite a long way to find a place for an unscheduled toilet stop in this terrain and not be in full view of the other walkers etc).
At this stage our trusty guide Solvi announces that we are having lunch and breaks out the food supplies – bread, butter, cheese, cold meat, tomatoes and cucumber. It is self serve and the hot coffee, served out of thermoses into plastic cups is very much welcome (this will become even more welcome over the next few days but more on that later)! We all continue to acquaint ourselves with our fellow trekkers during the lunch break (after some chatting during the bus trip). The wind is blowing and already the wind chill is noticeable as the cloud cover is preventing the sun breaking through. So on goes the beanie and the gloves, as we are now at 600 metres above sea level.
For the more hardy members of the group a swim is on the agenda in the nearby geothermal stream (a tributary of which is pictured below), whilst some of us resort to taking photos instead. The thought of taking off my comfy merino layers is too much even at this stage! However the presence of this stream is why this particular trailhead is also known as the hot springs route in Iceland (Laugavegurinn). The one blessing of the cool weather is that it has kept the midges at bay (allegedly there had been clouds of them the previous week at the trailhead when the sun was out).
Finally the entry to the trailhead is approached and after a group briefing from Solvi on what to expect over the next few hours, we set off hiking up and over an old lava bed (the dark rubbly appearing outcrop in the centre of the following photo)! This is the Laugahraun lava field from the eruption of the nearby Blanhjukur volcano back in 1477.
2. Trekking up towards the Caldera
Once we have trekked across the lava field followed by crossing a ridge we find ourselve in the Jokulgil canyon which is where some of the official picture postcard images of Iceland are taken from. Of course out come the digital devices for what is the first of many photo opportunities (weather permitting). This is what the day trippers also have come to look at, so we are not alone at this stage. It is hard to capture the different colours of the earth (and lichens), as there is not a lot of sunlight! According to Solvi it is the varying mineral content of the rock which contributes to the different colours, particularly the rhyolite (this region must be a geologists dream!).
Trekking into the Jokulgil canyon
Off we set again and head up over yet another ridge and this is when the first of what will be a number of fumeroles is spotted. The only sounds (apart from us), are of the hot water and steam exiting the earth (hissing and bubbling) combined with the unique smell of sulphur. This all contributes to the different colours that are evident in the surrounding volcanic rock and sand (this is also dependent on what types of minerals are dissolved in the water). The sun however is still obscured by cloud! There are not many other people on the trail from this point onwards.
Steam emanating from fumeroles
Further on we travel, and descend into another valley where there is some more volcanic activity alongside a river. On closer inspection one can see the hot water bubbling up through the rocky terrain, along with being able to hear the hissing of the steam. It is nice to be out of the wind and close to some warmth (but not too close!!!). The patches of alpine moss and lichens provide a stark contrast with their vivid colours.
Many others have used the adage that this type of scenery in Iceland is a combination of “Fire and Ice” as can be seen in the following image. Amongst the vividly coloured lichens and moss there are splashes of even brighter colours from some of the alpine plants. However we cannot linger for too long because we have further to travel including undertaking a climb out of this valley followed by trekking across more in the way of remnant snow fields dotted amongst the rocky terrain, in order to reach our destination for the night ( which is the topic of the next post).
So off we set towards an alpine hut on the side of a mountain, but first we need to climb up an icy slope
To be continued : Trekking the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland – Day 1 : Part B Heading for Mount Hrafntinnusker
Living the Life in the Great Outdoors 