We head on towards another valley as the weather is holding – ie there is no rain! This involves crossing over snow fields including on ridge sides. The wind is blowing and it feels cooler as we are now at a higher elevation. The snow is not always clean and white courtesy of the wind having blown a combination of volcanic sand/ash across it (so snow angels are not a viable proposition, unless you want to damage your outerwear!).
Up and down, crunch, crunch crunch. This is hard work as our feet tend to sink in the snow and it takes a lot of effort to prevent your lower legs from twisting. This is akin to wearing hiking boots across crunchy/rocky sand maybe?. Then on top there may be an incline (think sand hills)!!! In between the snow the trail runs across regions of varying sized rocks. So basically this is now a trek across uneven ground. Unless you have legs like a mountain goat this also requires the use of trekking poles.
The compensation however for all if this effort are the 360 degree spectacular views of the surrounding mountains! Even at this stage I am not able to linger for very long whilst taking photos. This is because the smart phone is not coping with the wind chill-it is taking a lot longer to fire up due to the cold leaching the battery!!! If you think it looks cold, well basically it is.
I am glad that I have worn my winter weight merino undergarments and a winter rated neck gaiter. A winter scarf was not up to the task despite several attempts at rearranging it. The over jacket is wind proof, as recommended in the trip briefing notes. Every now and then there is a glimpse of blue sky and it hence becomes a little less gloomy up on the Caldera, which provides for even more magnificent views. The sky when glimpsed is so incredibly blue!
On we trek and eventually down a slope and around a corner …… voila, another fumerole (and more photo opportunities!).
We trek around the side of the hill in order to get a closer look at this particular fumarole and the surrounding region. The lichen has this amazing spongy cushion type feel on closer inspection. However we have to avoid treading on it because the vegetation is not to be interfered with according to the trail rules, as this is a National Park. What initially sounds like loud hissing becomes more of a roar the closer we get.
Once we are as close as is practical (and safe), the sound becomes more like that of a low pitch aircraft engine, but at full volume. This is impressive. The warmth from the steam combined with less wind in this part of the valley means that the smart phone does not need as much battery life to power up for photos. NB there is no wifi in this part of Iceland so using various apps is completely out of the question.
Then we have to set about climbing out of the valley. This involves climbing up a slope covered in snow (with an unbroken layer of icy volcanic debris on it). Whilst I contemplate as to whether I can use my trekking poles as mini ice axes because I am not wearing crampons, Solvi (our guide), announces that we must follow him up the slope. By kicking through the ice with his boots Solvi fashions one step at a time in the snow, and we all dutifully follow him in single file. The alternative would have been to back track and climb yet another ridge. I am grateful for one of my fellow trekkers for the following image of us all heading up the slope (I am second last).
From then on the trek involves crossing even more snow, in between sections of rocks. I try to take photos on two occasions of the group trekking across long stretches of the snow, but the wind chill renders the smart phone non operational. Hence the smart phone is wrapped in plastic and placed inside my jacket to protect it from the cold.
Finally we crest the final ridge and find ourselves looking down at a basin where the Hoskuldsskali Hut and nearby camp ground are located. This hut complex is on the side of Mount Hrafntinnusker (the peak of which is just out of sight), at an elevation of 1027 metres. Looking south we can see the peaks of a number of other mountains.
It is a relief to know we have made it (and that we can get out of the wind). I am pleased not be camping when I see the amount of snow nearby and the distance from the tents to the camp ground outhouse (that small structure standing alone in the centre of the image below).
The main hut in which we are all staying is of a reasonable size. We are given a run down on the hut rules (no boots inside, they must be left in the vestibule), two people per bed (because there is limited bunk spaces), no noise between 12pm and 7am. Oh and by the way there are no showers and the latrines are outside, via a wooden deck which runs along the side of the main hut. However the positive is that we are not braving the elements overnight in tents.
Once inside all damp gear is removed and replaced with dry clothes. Then we sort out who will sleep where in the one bunk room that is allocated to the group. I will be top and tailing on one bunk for the night with one of the other women. This forces everyone to organise their belongings, as there is not a lot of additional space. It sure is going to be cosy! Solvi sets about preparing dinner (with the aid of some of the group members as we all have to pitch in to assist with kitchen duties during this trip).
Dinner is fish, with rice and a large mixed salad. Dessert is Skyr yoghurt. The hut has been supplied with food brought in by a driver contracted for the trip (who has also brought our additional bags). The vehicle in which everything was transported was driven over a back road (and off road), to reach the hut. Two of these vehicles can be seen in the above image parked beside the main hut. As there is no refrigerator the food is able to be stored outside in large boxes (because the outside air temperature doubles as a refrigerator). Not long after dinner we all turn in despite the fact that there is no sign of darkness. I have a strategy in case I need to get up and go outside in the middle of the night but have serious doubts that I will actually need the headlight.
To be continued. Trekking the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland -Day 2 – Hrafntinnusker to Alftavatn
Living the Life in the Great Outdoors 