Sleep is to prove elusive due to the snoring in the bunk chamber through the so called night which has also rendered my head lamp redundant for this trip. A trip to the latrines is made in what seems daylight but as the thick cloud continues to obscure the sky it is hard to tell where the sun is. After enduring the cold I return to my sleeping bag, being careful to not wake my fellow companion on the same bunk.
By 5 am I have decided to change into my clothes after a short visit for a face wash etc in the outside sink (the cold really focuses my attention to the task at hand). By this stage the wind is really blowing and the sky is even more heavily overcast. Also the temperature is a lot lower! So with some careful shielding of the smart phone I take a couple of photos of the scenery.
Looking out west across the camp ground (where there is as yet no sign of activity), there is a good view of the Reykjafjoll Mountain (the two peaks in the photo).
Turning to look south (where we have to head on todays journey), one can see a number of mountains, including the Haskerdingur peak (largely obscured by cloud).
By 6 am my fellow trekkers begin to stir. Clothes are changed inside sleeping bags (or around corners), followed by belongings being sorted. I roll up and place into their respective stuff sacks my sleeping bag, liner and pillow, then pack the duffle bag. Snacks are put into the back pack along with one winter weight middle layer top and the water bottle is filled. All of my other winter gear is left out (because the weather conditions are steadily deteriorating as the cloud ceiling is now dropping).
Breakfast is strong coffee, porridge and bread with whatever fat laden/sugary spread you opt for. I choose the butter. Then we have to make sandwiches for lunch from a similar selection of foodstuffs as the previous day. Our guide (Solvi), advises the group that it is best to take an extra sandwich (for energy). Once everything is put away after breakfast we get ready to depart. One by one we kit up, boot up and step out of the hut. By this stage the visibility has reduced such that you can no longer see across the valley. I turn the smart phone off, wrap it in plastic and place it inside my jacket-for warmth, as there is no point in trying to use it.
The advice we are given as we depart is that we will not be stopping for breaks until we descend from the Caldera (due to the conditions!!). On go my snow goggles (I have come prepared), in addition to my wind and waterproof outer gear now on top of the various inner layers.
We trek across the valley in what is now misty rain, past the slopes of Mount Reykjafjoll. Trail markers are not visible from a distance by this stage. No wonder the recommendations for this trail are that it is best to opt for a guide unless you are highly experienced at navigating in such conditions. As we head through the Kaldaklofsjoll glacier region one snow cave is spotted.
Eventually we reach the slopes of Jokultungur. Then there is a descent down the side of this mountain, which is challenging as it is predominantly on loose shale rock. Two thirds down the slope my thighs are burning (from the lactic acid build up and mild dehydration), but there is no stopping. I slip on one occasion but do not tumble (the hiking poles are invaluable on this terrain). We all keep close together (for safety), which becomes a lot easier as we descend below the cloud line.
We trek on a little further and reach another promontory. Solvi then announces that we will stop for lunch (despite the wind). I meanwhile have visions of having to jump up and down or instead run around in circles whilst eating a sandwich in order to avoid hypothermia! The scenery is barren around us, but as we are below the cloud line a couple of photos can now be taken.
Then all of a sudden Solvi produces two bright orange oval tarpaulins and we split into two groups. With some gymnastics and preplacing of sandwiches and coffee thermoses on the ground the next thing we know is that most of us are now inside two temporary shelters on a promontory. In the distance is our final destination (Lake Alftavatn and the surrounding mountains). It is a relief to be out of the wind.
Despite the cramped conditions it is warm and out come the sandwiches and coffee. One of my fellow trekkers snaps a photo of our muddy boots (I am to the right holding a pink plastic cup-with the obligatory coffee in it!!!).
Warmer and refreshed we set off and close to the end of our descent into the valley we receive an impromptu geology lesson from Solvi. The build up of volcanic ash on the receding snow leads to these unusual dark ash mounds (as pictured below). Again thanks to one of my fellow trekkers for this image. If anyone reading this blog knows what this actual phenomenon is (in scientific terms), please leave a comment.
On we trek until we are wending our way across the flats to the Alftavatn hut. Again boots and damp clothes are placed in the appropriate places. The hut is nice and warm courtesy of a gas powered heater (and the trusty support team who have arrived in advance). I head out to the sinks at the rear of the latrine/shower block (pictured below) to clean muddy equipment. The wind is still blowing but there is a hint of blue sky!!! The more hardy members of the group opt for a 5 minute shower despite having to brave the elements before and after.
Refreshed after a hot drink and a bite to eat I head out again to look at the scenery. Alpine flowers are to be found in patches dotted amongst the rocky terrain of the barren landscape. The low cloud ceiling returns, so there are no more photos to be had of the surrounding mountain peaks.
Dinner is Icelandic lamb soup. Fortunately there is more space in the bunk room in this hut, so we can spread out just a little more. Again we all retire before the sun sets (not that it seems to be setting, but with the cloud cover it is hard to tell!). Another days trekking awaits.
To be continued : Trekking the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland – Day 3 : Alftavatn to Emstrur
Living the Life in the Great Outdoors 