Breakfast has already become an exercise in fuelling up for what turns out to be half a morning (depending on how many hills there are). This includes downing two large cups of coffee, except more often than not the coffee is served in bowls and if you want milk (lait), then this has to be added. Then I head out into the mist! The camaraderie amongst the hikers on the trail is excellent. I assist one woman hiker with directions on one occasion and am impressed with the offers of food from other hikers along the trail. In addition there is advice as to how to obtain fruit from some of the trees by the trail. Some of the French hikers are expert at scavenging fruit!
There continues to be an assortment of wayside crosses along the GR 65 (Grand Randonnee), some made of stone and some made of iron residing on plinths. If you see one of these you know for sure that you are on the GR 65, as crosses were used historically as wayside markers, before the system of modern markers and signs were introduced.
At the weekends the hunters are out in the forests, and often you could hear them (the sound of the horn, the barking of the dogs and the odd gun shot). Hence it was best not to deviate from the GR 65! There are new sights to see including several old communal ovens built in the style of the older rural buildings in this region.
Every now and then you come across a larger village with even more magnificent old buildings as well as an old church but depending on the time of day these may not be open. Villages are also a good place to find a WC, although at times the facility can be quite basic (think hole in the ground arrangement) !
The highest elevation on the Aubrac plateau on this particular trail is the Roc des Loups and the views are commanding once one is at the top. I made sure I stopped and had some food etc before making the climb up here (plus there was the descent down the other side).
By comparing notes with some of the other hikers I heard that some hikers had stopping walking (and were either giving up completely or paying to be transported by road to their next stop). Reasons included severe foot blisters and on occasion insect stings (one has to be careful of wasps near the rotting fruit on the ground at times). This is a trail that one needs to have trained for otherwise the going can be tough or in some cases too tough. At this stage I was averaging 25km a day and realised that long training walks during the previous 3 months were paying off.
One evening meal was spent with other hikers in an eatery where the cheese course was passed around the restaurant on a large communal slate (and you could eat as much as you want)! Of course I also had the aligot during the main course as I am developing a major fondness for Cantal cheese and I needed to fuel up for another day.
At times I found myself walking across farmland often with other hikers being visible ahead of me if it was still morning, opening and shutting the various farm gates as I went. There was always a quick hello, how are you exchanged-sometimes in English, sometimes in French-if I came across any hikers who have stopped for a break. On one occasion I came across two French farmers are guiding an Aubrac cow and her calf back to a farm building and of course I gave way!
Descending from the Aubrac plateau takes one along what are predominantly rocky sections of the GR 65 through wooded areas towards the Lot Valley. I often had only European wall lizards for company during this particular stage and the bright green variety were rather magnificent to look at. Any low hanging fruit on the fruit trees was also a very much welcome addition to the snack regimen. As it was Autumn and the acorns were also dropping I was glad that I was wearing a wide brimmed hat because this way the acorns did not hit me in the face (and they do sting if they drop from a height)!
Yes the trail is predominantly rocky but it is a relief to be under shade at times. An image of this section of the descent into the Lot Valley can be found in my in initial post about the Via Podiensis https://debverranlivinglifeoutdoors.travel.blog/2019/11/06/tales-from-the-via-podiensis/
One village provided a welcome stop and a chance to buy food at a local store come boulangerie. It is always good to walk around and look at some of the old medieval architecture along with the original town well
If water is potable then this is indicated by a sign, however not all water along the route is potable so if you want to avoid an upset stomach watch out for the signs!
To be continued: Tales from the Via Podiensis – c) From the Lozere into the Lot Valley of the Aveyron https://debverranlivinglifeoutdoors.travel.blog/2019/11/24/tales-from-the-viapodiensis-c-from-the-lozere-into-the-lot-valley-of-the-aveyron/
Living the Life in the Great Outdoors 
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